SMART PEEL GleySy®: when molecular science reinvents the art of professional peeling

Five formulations. Five molecular strategies. One same requirement: scientific precision.

In the world of professional peels, performance is still too often reduced to a single indicator: acid concentration. Yet a high concentration is not enough to define the quality of a peel.

Behind every formulation lies a complex physicochemical architecture, in which the nature of the molecules, their interactions, the pH and their availability all influence how the product behaves on contact with the skin.

The true sophistication of a peel does not lie in its advertised strength, but in the scientific relevance of its design. It is around this conviction that the SMART PEEL GleySy® collection is built.

The science of peeling: understanding before acting

A chemical peel rests on an interaction between active substances and cutaneous structures. That interaction depends on several fundamental parameters:

• The molecular nature of the acids, which determines their chemical properties.
• The concentration, which contributes to the formulation’s potential for action.
• The pH and the pKa, which influence the proportion of acid present in its different chemical forms.
• The formulation vehicle, which governs in particular the solubility and availability of the actives.
• The physiological state of the skin, which influences its individual response.

Two peels containing the same acid at the same concentration may therefore behave differently on the skin. Formulation thus becomes an essential component of professional precision.

At GleySy®, a peel is not conceived as a simple exfoliation, but as a molecular architecture built around a precise cutaneous objective.

Multi-acid intelligence: why combine different molecules?

Every acid has its own chemical identity. Glycolic acid, mandelic acid, lactic acid, lactobionic acid and ferulic acid share neither the same structures nor the same properties.

Some molecules are studied for their exfoliating properties, others for their interest in strategies addressing pigmentary irregularities, blemishes or oxidative stress.

Combining several actives makes it possible to design formulations that bring complementary properties together. This complementarity does not automatically mean greater efficacy: it depends on the coherence of the combinations, on their compatibility and on the characteristics of the final formula.

The SMART PEEL philosophy rests on one conviction: every molecule must have a scientific reason to be there.

Five GleySy® peels, five scientific signatures

SMART MANDELIC 50 — The elegance of cutaneous renewal

50% mandelic acid. A formulation devoted to the precision of exfoliation.

Mandelic acid belongs to the alpha-hydroxy acid family. Its aromatic structure gives it molecular characteristics that differ from those of glycolic acid. It is used in particular in professional approaches aimed at improving skin texture, the appearance of the skin’s grain and that of superficial irregularities.

SMART MANDELIC 50 combines mandelic acid with lactic acid and a moisturising complex derived from xylitol. This combination brings together an exfoliating strategy and ingredients that contribute to cutaneous hydration.

Its signature: an assertive concentration, set within a reasoned formulation architecture.

50% mandelic peelSmart Mandelic PeelProfessional peel with a high mandelic acid content.Discover SMART MANDELIC PEEL GleySy®→

SMART AZELAIC — Precision for blemish-prone skin

A combination of complementary actives for a targeted approach to cutaneous blemishes.

SMART AZELAIC combines azelaic acid, mandelic acid and a lipophilic derivative of salicylic acid.

Azelaic acid is studied for its interest in blemishes and pigmentary irregularities. Mandelic acid brings its exfoliating properties, while the lipophilic derivative of salicylic acid completes this architecture with distinct physicochemical characteristics.

This combination makes it possible to build a formulation strategy suited to professional objectives concerning the appearance of blemish-prone skin.

Its signature: a multi-acid architecture devoted to the balance and visual quality of blemish-prone skin.

Multi-acid peelSmart Azelaic PeelProfessional peel combining azelaic, mandelic and modified salicylic acids.Discover SMART AZELAIC PEEL GleySy®→

SMART MELANOVA — The sophistication of the pigmentary approach

Six major actives brought together in a formulation designed around the complexity of pigmentary irregularities.

Cutaneous pigmentation depends on many biological mechanisms: melanocyte activity, melanin synthesis, inflammation and light exposure.

SMART MELANOVA combines:

• Glycolic acid: 20%
• Citric acid: 10%
• Lactic acid: 10%
• Kojic acid: 4%
• Tranexamic acid: 3%
• Retinol: 1%

The exfoliating acids take part in surface renewal. Kojic acid is studied for its interaction with tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in melanin synthesis. Tranexamic acid is studied in various strategies addressing pigmentary disorders. Retinol, for its part, is known for its involvement in epidermal renewal mechanisms.

This combination illustrates a multifactorial approach to pigmentary irregularities, whose specific benefits must be confirmed by the evaluation of the final formulation.

Its signature: several molecular mechanisms gathered around a single objective — an even complexion.

Multi-active peelSmart Melanova PeelProfessional peel combining exfoliating acids, kojic acid, tranexamic acid and retinol.Discover SMART MELANOVA PEEL GleySy®→

SMART FERULIC — Renewal and antioxidant science combined

An architecture pairing ferulic acid with a complex of complementary exfoliating acids.

SMART FERULIC combines:

• Ferulic acid: 8%
• Salicylic acid derivative: 2%
• Mandelic acid: 5%
• Citric acid: 5%
• Lactic acid: 5%

Ferulic acid is a phenolic compound studied for its antioxidant properties. Pairing it with several exfoliating acids brings different molecular properties together in a single formulation.

SMART FERULIC is thus part of a professional approach devoted to radiance, texture and the appearance of dull skin.

Its signature: where antioxidant chemistry meets the science of cutaneous renewal.

Antioxidant peelSmart Ferulic PeelProfessional multi-acid peel enriched with ferulic acid.Discover SMART FERULIC PEEL GleySy®→

SMART EYE PEEL — High precision devoted to the beauty of the eyes

Because the eye contour calls for a different approach from the rest of the face.

The periocular region has significant anatomical particularities. Its skin is generally thinner and its physiological environment requires particular attention.

SMART EYE PEEL combines in particular:

• Lactobionic acid, a polyhydroxy acid recognised for its humectant properties.
• Mandelic acid, an alpha-hydroxy acid with specific molecular characteristics.
• Tranexamic acid, studied for its interest in approaches addressing pigmentary irregularities.

This combination makes it possible to design a targeted approach to the appearance of the eye contour, its radiance and its visible irregularities.

SMART EYE PEEL can be integrated into a specific professional protocol or precede, in accordance with the validated protocol, the use of EYELIFT INTENSE MESO. Its use requires strict observance of the precautions specific to the periocular region, in particular the absence of contact with the eye and the neutralisation set out in the protocol.

Its signature: a molecular architecture designed specifically for an area where precision is essential.

Eye-contour peelSmart Eye PeelProfessional peel designed specifically for the eye-contour area.Discover SMART EYE PEEL GleySy®→

pH: a fundamental element of physicochemical precision

pH takes part in the chemical equilibrium of weak acids and influences how they behave within a formulation. The values reported for the SMART PEEL formulations are as follows:

• SMART MANDELIC 50 — pH 2.1
• SMART AZELAIC — pH 2.3
• SMART MELANOVA — pH 2.1
• SMART FERULIC — pH 1.8

These values must be read in the light of the complete composition of each formula: a lower pH guarantees neither greater efficacy nor a deeper action. The pH of SMART EYE PEEL will be added once its final value is confirmed.

Scientific precision means understanding every parameter of a formulation, rather than systematically seeking the highest acidity.

The quality of a peel begins long before it is applied

The quality of the raw materials, their identification, their stability and the control of manufacturing parameters are essential elements. The reproducibility of a protocol also depends on the condition of the skin, on the conditions of use and on the individual biological response.

At GleySy®, the formulation approach favours the coherence of molecular combinations and the understanding of their properties. Skin preparation, neutralisation where required and post-treatment care are all part of this professional approach.

GleySy®: a scientific signature, a vision of formulation

The sophistication of a peel is not measured solely by the number of ingredients in its formula. It lies in the relevance of their selection, the understanding of their properties and the coherence of their combination.

SMART MANDELIC, SMART AZELAIC, SMART MELANOVA, SMART FERULIC and SMART EYE PEEL express five distinct intentions gathered around one philosophy.

GleySy® does not conceive a peel as a mere concentration of acids, but as a molecular architecture serving a precise professional approach.

SMART PEEL GleySy® — Molecular intelligence in the service of cutaneous precision.

Discover the SMART PEEL collection